NAWCC First Australian Chapter No. 72 inc.
 
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First treatment showing darkening Other side showing greyed marble
This view is starting to look good No treatment
However a closeup shows  a lot of work in polishing has yet to be done.  The white bits are dust The untreated side.  The white bits are a fungus.
The colour under the bezel is quite dark.  I like these French movements that strike on a bell This is my favourite marble clock - next on the restoration list. The bottom plate was in a dozen bits, I glued them with blackened Araldite

Not happy with it.

A lot of work still has to be done to this clock.  The surface has lost its surface due to this treatment and will need finishing off with crocus paper to revive the polished surface The treatment is based on the marble has lost its moisture content and has gone grey.  I have replaced the moisture with Singer oil I need to form up more sanding blocks that will follow the curvature of the moldings. I use 1200 and

 1600 grit wet and dry

This is after the second treatment.  This  way is removing the white spots (fungus?)  by removing the surface gently with fine grit paper After wiping, you can see where the gloss surface has become mat with the grit paper.  How am I going to restore the surface?
This is the clock with a third drenching and wet and dry.  It tends to form a slurry Here is my clock

 cloth dried

Beware: this is my clock and if I ruin it it is my problem.  I am not recommending this method to anyone, just sharing my experience Anyhow, it looks a lot better than it did before treatment. I will work on it again next weekend to try and put a wax polish on it The original high shine that the

 clock had when it was new has gone

I'm hoping wax

 polish will bring it back

The wax polish did not bring up the shine and I removed it and went back to finish the surface properly with crocus paper The front plinth is now getting it's old shine back.  The case has still a way to go, I get bored with polishing and have to do it is small doses
I eventually used a soft pad on an electric drill to bring up the surface, hand work is too slow. The case is unwaxed You have to be very careful not to let the drill chuck touch the case - unless you like repairing chips!  I haven't waxed it yet.  I put some wax on before the surface was good enough and had a heck of a job removing it. I haven't decided whether to wax or not I'm using the method shown to me by Greg Kelly at the recent workshop in Sydney